My ferry ride to Japan was starting to look possible. After some nudging and plenty of patience, the tone changed. Camellia Line’s Japan office had finished its investigations and was onboard with taking me. My contact at Korea Ferry (Camellia Line Agent) got in touch. Things were looking up.
I started providing him with my travel documents and in the meantime made my way back to Busan. I stayed at Haeundae Beach this time. It turned out to be the most touristy spot I remember visiting since I left Australia. Although that’s relative.
The hotel I found was right on the edge of the bay. My initial room was a dud but with a chat to the receptionist and the promise to stay three more days I was moved to a great spot.
A school of fish arrived just after I took this photo. They were a reasonable size and the locals were happy.
One day I took a walk around the coast to visit Haedong Yonggungsa Temple. Most visitors seem to take a bus tour to get there but I decided to walk the 7km. There is also a tourist train that can take you part way.
South Korea was keeping up its reputation for great exercise parks. This one was about 1km from my hotel. I think I saw a deer early one morning as the sun was rising, although I may have been seeing things, the area just seems to urbanised. The lady in the picture was a gem. She said good morning (in her language) each morning for the three days. She was probably 90 years old but still did laps up and down the hill.
The weekend was approaching. In Korea the hotel prices double or triple on the weekend for some reason. This weekend was worse as the Busan Fireworks Festival was on. And it is held on the coast, so my room was prime viewing and went up to about 350 AUD. Not for me.
So it was time to leave town again and I booked a hotel room in Ulsan further up the coast. It was only 1-2 hours from my hotel. Fortunately I was able to hang around the Busan hotel after I checked out. However, about now my email discussions with Korean Ferry hit a critical point. I decided to head through the city, in the opposite direction and go to the Busan Ferry Passenger Terminal and meet with them face to face. I was fully loaded so they kindly met me outside and via Google Translate we worked out the finer details of my trip. It was sorted at last, they just needed a week to do the paperwork. I ended up riding through Busan peak hour in the dark to reach Ulsan, but it was worth it.
This is my hotel in Ulsan. With a bit of hunting Korean hotels have been the best value by far on my trip. This one cost me 65,000 KRW or about 75 AUD per night. The rooms are small and cosy, it’s new, soundproof, technically modern, includes a simple breakfast and is 250 metres from a main shopping district.
I ended up just relaxing for a week. Each day I would explore for a while and then find some for lunch. It rotated through pork cutlet set, udon noodle set (above), sushi and dumplings.
Ulsan had good fitness parks again. It was getting cold. Some mornings were 1-2 degrees celcius but no rain so far. It was time to head towards the equator.
Jeonju to Okpo-dong, South Korea
Update 45 (October 2023)
Ferry motorcycle from South Korea to Japan
Update 47 (October 2023)