Leaving Tajikistan and Travelling Uzbekistan by Motorcycle
Update 65 (July 2024)
Dushanbe, Tajikistan to Uzbekistan
Soon after reaching Dushanbe I became sick. I was expecting it. During the previous week, at two different guest houses I had heard each lady in the kitchen coughing pretty badly while she made my dinner. What could I do? These were remote locations and I had to eat. Typically I had already skipped lunch.
The gamble didn’t pay off this time and one or both made me sick. I stayed around my Dushanbe hotel and kept a low profile. Six days later I was ready to leave.
My next main destination was Tashkent, the capital of Uzbekistan. I needed to get to the Iran Embassy for my eVisa payment and completion.
I left Dushanbe and had a fairly easy ride to Khujand, where I spent the night.
It is apricot season and the roadside to Khujand was a popular spot for growers to sell and dry their fruit.
There were two border crossings into Uzbekistan. As per usual, I decided to take the smaller one and go to the north of Syr Darya Reservoir. After a couple of hours I reached the border. There was no mobile phone service, but basically I got turned back. I should have done my homework. It seems only locals can cross, no foreigners. So I backtracked most of the way, to then go to the south of the dam for the main crossing.
Entering Uzbekistan on my Motorcycle
Leaving Tajikistan was straightforward, if a little chaotic. Entering Uzbekistan was also fairly routine, although a little confusing. Where to go and what was required was not particularly clear, to me at least. Instead of going around in circles like me, this is what was supposed to happen.
As an Australian I could enter Uzbekistan without a visa. There were also no specific requirements for my motorcycle.
Upon arrival I needed to stop at the first office on the right and get a code for the motorcycle. The officer entered my motorcycle details in the computer system, I paid a fee of 5 USD and he wrote down my code and gave it to me. I also had a photo of my motorcycle registration plate taken.
I then rode 30 metres and parked the bike and went to the immigration booth. That was easy and done in five minutes.
I then walked across the driveway to the Customs window. I gave him my code from before and my motorcycle registration paper. Unlike many other countries Customs did not give me any paperwork. He clearly indicated it was all in the system and they would look it up at the exit border (which is what happened).
The police or military then wanted to inspect the contents of my luggage. They were doing the same for each car. It was a pretty standard inspection and they had a quick look in every bag. It’s just a nuisance because it is always harder to repack once my bags are on the motorbike. But that was it, I was free to enter Uzbekistan.
Take note that foreigners are required to retain a Registration paper from each hotel you stay at. The hotels are used to it and may give it to you automatically, some don’t though. Make sure you collect them. You are required to present these papers when you exit the country. On initially arriving at the border gate I was asked for these papers. I briefly showed the officer and he was happy. He didn’t really check. I was actually one short. Nobody in the immigration office asked me anymore about it.
The town of Kokand was about an hour from the border. I picked up an Uzbekistan SIM that evening. I did need to submit my full details, passport etc. The price was very good at about 7 USD for around 50Gb and 30 days. Uz Mobile from memory.
This is the former Palace of Khudáyár Khán. It is relatively new being built in 1870.
Inside the Palace of Khudáyár Khán.
Upon reaching Tashkent, my first job was some minor repairs on my motorbike. My aftermarket tail tidy had broken and needed repairing. Plus I would take the opportunity for an oil change and check over after the bumps of the Pamir Highway area.
I found Motozone and was happy with their work, especially the tail tidy repair. Just be aware that during summer they work at night to avoid the heat. If you call in during the day they might be asleep. I dropped off the bike at 6pm and collected it at 7am which meant I avoided the traffic.
The rest of my time in Tashkent was pretty much spent on administration. My visit to the Iran embassy to finalise my visa was a failure the first time. I caught a taxi across town but their computer system was down, so I had to go back the next day, which worked out.
I also needed to get a large amount of US dollars to cover me for Turkmenistan and Iran. Foreigners basically have no access to the banking system in these countries.
Getting USD in Uzbekistan was difficult. Despite some claims, the ATM’s had no USD and besides I needed a large amount. An over the counter withdrawal at a bank was my best chance.
After a few attempts it became clear I would need to apply for something called a PINFL – a Personal Identification Number of an Individual. This involved going to a separate government office. My first attempt failed because the computer system was down. The next day I went back and applied successfully and on the third day I went back to collect it. It is very fortunate I could use Yandex to order a ride share and the price is about 1.5 USD for 5kms. The bank then seemed to basically set me up as a customer. Eventually I did get my cash.
One other job I did was get a Covid test. To get into Turkmenistan next I had to have a negative Covid test at the border. I was a little suspicious about my illness in Dushanbe and wasn’t going to take the chance of getting turned away at the border (especially since I would have already left Uzbekistan). The test in Tashkent was negative. And the test at the Turkmenistan border was very generous anyway. I think they just wanted the fee and to welcome me in to spend more of my foreign currency.
Getting some work done at Motozone in Tashkent. They did a great job.
I did do a lot of walking in Tashkent. One of the bazaars that I came across.
Stone fruit season. Melons are everywhere also. The watermelon is the old fashioned variety with seeds, that is still sweet and juicy. Perfect in the heat.
This building was built for the Uzbekistan Circus during Soviet times. There is a big City Park nearby but it was just hot and sterile, so the kids were cooling off here (40 °C each day).
I stayed in Tashkent for about 5 days in the end. I was also finalising my entry to Turkmenistan and Iran which I will cover when I write about those countries.
For now I had about one week before I had to enter Turkmenistan, so I slowly made my way to the border. I spent a few days in Samarkand and then a couple in Bukhara. Both were more touristy than I had recently experienced, Bukhara especially.
One of the main attractions in Samarkand is Registan Square. It is three educational buildings from the 14th century. I had a great stay at Hotel Silver Rows about five minutes away.
Inside one of the madrasahs ( educational institutions) in Registan Square.
Twilight at Registan Square. There is a light show that comes on once it is dark.
The à la carte breakfast at Hotel Silver Rows, Samarkand. It was a really good family owned hotel.
I also visited Amir Tenur Mausoleum. Construction began in 1403.
It was then onto Bukhara for two nights. It is a dryer and more raw area. The city was a key stop on the Silk Route.
The entrance to the The Ark of Bukhara. Construction of the fortress began sometime before 500AD.
The walls of the Ark of Bukhara.
Murghob to Wakhan Valley, Tajikistan
Update 64 (June 2024)
Bukhara, Uzbekistan to Turkmenistan
Update 66 (July 2024)