Riding from Scandinavia to Ireland
Update 72 (October 2024)
Sweden to Ireland
My time in Europe began to be about recovery and preparation for the next phase. It was the chance to buy stuff that just isn’t available in many parts of the world i.e. new “rugged” phones, new motorcycle boots, tyres, earphones.
The tyres I had bought in Japan and Kyrgyzstan were done for and my last service was a while back in Tajikistan. And there were occasional clunking noises at low speed that I thought was the chain and sprocket, but it wasn’t.
While in Sweden I did some checking online and found there was a Motoz Tyre distributor in Sweden. I got in touch with Michael at Event-MC. Michael does motorcycle and car tyres in a small town and tyres have been a family business for a long time. He is also a very experienced motorcyclist and keen to help fellow riders.
While changing my tyres he spotted that my rear wheel bearings were done for (130,000kms). That was the clunking noise and they had pretty much started to melt down and disintegrate. I was very lucky it had not left me stranded somewhere. Fortunately he was up for fixing the problem for me. I booked into the only hotel in town (which was part of a veterinary training school but also open to the public). Then we drove into the town of Östersund to work out a solution. Buying a new wheel from Yamaha was at least a few hundred Euro and around 4 days away.
Michael had a better way and we began visiting some small businesses around Östersund. We went to a shop that seemed to be more about trailers and caravans but they had a bearing race and seals that were the correct size. Then we went to what I would know in Australia as a fitting and turning business. When we returned after lunch they had turned up a replacement part that was the final ingredient. Michael also did a couple of other small jobs for me and was a great host. If you are ever in Sweden please consider giving him some business – Event-MC.
I have a little aftermarket voltmeter diode that I installed when I first bought the bike. It is a simple diode that lights green when the charging system is okay and a variety of red or amber when there is a problem. I just keep an eye on it as I ride. It’s reassuring to know the power side of things is doing what it should. But for the first time in over 4 years it started flashing a red SOS, indicating something was wrong. Either my alternator was not charging or the battery was not holding the charge. I now know it was actually telling me the battery was low. If the alternator is faulty it is a constant amber. I could tell something was up, but this was a good warning to get onto it before the battery completely died. This is the manufacturer – Sparkbright. I was in a small town in Sweden but managed to find a battery in stock at a Biltema store. It was cheap but will hopefully last okay. The worn out battery was non genuine, made in China and two years old.
I just kept riding south, using the bridges through Denmark and into Germany. I spent over a week just hanging around Germany buying some things online and waiting for them to be delivered.
Both my Nokia XR20 rugged phones had problems after I was riding in the rain in Norway and Sweden. They had already been repaired and as I was advised the weather seal would not be as good. It sits on my handle bars exposed to the rain and 100 kmh+ wind blowing water at it, so it is understandable.
It took a while to find a replacement that was readily available and I trusted it’s reliability. I found a very well priced German rugged phone, that is actually still made in Germany – Gigaset GX6. I also managed to find a phone repairer that turned my two faulty Nokias into one good one. I left the other with him that he was going to repair and sell.
This is Vogelkijkhut Zwillbrocker Venn. A nature reserve in Germany by the border of the Netherlands. I stayed nearby and borrowed a hotel bicycle to explore. It is a well known bird reserve, including some Chilean flamingos that escaped from captivity and now breed here.
I tried out the macro lense on my new phone while exploring Vogelkijkhut Zwillbrocker Venn. I needs some practice but it was amazing how much nature there was to see when you slow down and look closely.
As I was waiting for my online shopping deliveries I took some small side trips. I stayed in this family owned hotel that also owns the 14th century castle. Afterwards I spent a few days riding through Luxembourg and the Netherlands and then back into Germany.
The castle was occupied and then blown up by French troops in 1689 and has been a ruin since.
Eventually I had all my shopping and it was time to head for England. I spent a couple of days in Calais and then took the 35 minute Eurotunnel across the channel. I was the only motorcycle. You just stand around in the carriage for the duration of the trip. I left the EU and entered the UK in Calais, so you just ride straight off the train and onto the motorway. And back to driving on the left.
I was due to catch up with a family member in England but had just enough time for a quick visit to Ireland. I rode up to Scotland and caught a ferry from Cairnryan to Belfast, so I could enter in the north and exit in the south.
It was an easy 2.5 hour trip.
Leaving Cairnryan, Scotland.
I stayed just out of Belfast and then headed for the west coast.
My first full day in Ireland was a balmy 15 degrees with the sun shining most of the day. And a nice swell coming in.
This is Mullaghmore Head, a well known surfing location. The viewing location was busy but I found a perfect spot for my motorbike and sat and watched the spectacle for a while.
They were probably ten foot waves (by the measurement method used in Australia).
There were half a dozen professional looking photographers working and quite a few spectators. I didn’t hear many Irish accents, mainly American. I met a nice Australian/Irish family that gave me some good tips with directions.
This is along a nearby detour called the Gleniff Horseshoe.
I found a nice guest house in a small village called Dooagh on Achill Island. It was almost as far west as you can get. Once I settled in at Dooagh I started to learn more about the weather forecast. I knew there was some rain coming but I hadn’t understood the system bringing it. It was the first storm of the 2024/25 season to qualify for a name, and was Ashley. With rain and sustained winds of 100 kmh and gusts to 130, it was not motorcycle riding weather. Luckily I had wonderful hosts at Creevagh guest house who took care of me for another day.
The storm began to settle in the afternoon so I ventured outside for a walk. This is Disappearing Beach, that briefly became a sandy beach in 2017 after 34 years, but then lost it again.
Wild seas.
I made the mistake of venturing too close to the beach car park and came back dotted with sea spray foam.
My trip to Ireland was already too short and Storm Ashley just made it tighter. I took a nice ride along R336 and basically headed south to the ferry at Wexford. I booked with Stena Lines to depart at 8:15am. At 2:15am I received an SMS message that the service had been cancelled due to a technical problem….. Luckily I woke and saw the message, so jumped on the internet to find a solution. Fortunately Irish Ferries had a service a little later and at 3am I bought a ticket and then went to sleep for a couple more hours.
Inside the Irish Ferries ship to Pembroke in Wales.
Loading truck trailers ready for collection in Wales.
Leaving Rosslare Harbour, bound for Pembroke, Wales. I met a Welsh biker in the queue and sat for with him for the trip. He was good fun and the four hours were pretty quick.