Riding my Motorcycle along the Andes in Bolivia
Update 22 (February 2023)
Uyuni to Villa Imperial de Potosí
My stomach is still a little upset with me, just black coffee for breakfast, the lad is slowly learning.
I should explain about buying fuel in Bolivia. The government of Bolivia sets the fuel price and has a generous subsidy. The gasoline price is around 3.74Bs (Bolivianos) or 0.55USD. Foreigners don’t get that price. Ours is supposed to be around 9.47Bs (at the time) or 1.40USD, more like a global price.
The sale is supposed to be registered in the service station computer but often the pump attendant hasn’t been trained in what to do with a foreigner. So, a few times I have been completely turned away, sometimes correctly charged, sometimes get the local’s price and often a price in between. I just go with the flow and maybe slip them a tip, if they do go out of their comfort zone to get me some fuel. Sometimes it is the only place in town selling fuel. Sometimes I just have to get “black market” fuel.
Looking down on the plains and township of Uyuni (3,650 metres elevation).
Some of the ruins of the town of Pulacayo. I believe a lot of the towns people still work in small cooperative mines. Parts of the ruins are UNESCO Heritage Listed.
A herd of Llama grazing in the foreground.
At about this point I noticed a motorcycle traveller parked by the road. He wasn’t a local. I pulled off my helment and said, “do you speak any English”? He came back with “I am English”.
So, I had a chat with Ollie and Henry, his mate from Bolivia, who came along a few minutes later. They were travelling around Bolivia on Henry’s motorbikes for a couple of weeks. They peppered me with questions about my bike and lifestyle. Ollie had been sick too and as it turned out was a doctor, though I think they both were. So he gave me a few tips also. Although I think I was starting to come good by now (day 3).
They had already been to Potosi. “It’s a crazy place”, Ollie said. Crazy good or crazy bad I asked. “Good, good, you’ll see”, came back. We agreed to meet up that afternoon in Potosi.
I took these two photos by stopping on a bridge. The photos didn’t quite capture the magic of the spot. It was so pristine.
Unknown town.
Despite appearances, the railway line we were all flying over does get used.
I was now back up around 4,000 metres above sea level and dueling with a storm. I had been watching it, thinking it was going the same place as me. And here was me just arriving at Potosi, with it approaching in the background.
I had a hotel booked which was good and set off. Chaos ensued…. The hotel was in the centre of town, which is on the side of a mountain, with narrow one way streets. School pick up in the middle of the city was in full flight and everyone was going somewhere. I did well making my way to my hotel. It wasn’t quite raining yet. Plenty of thunder though.
But the hotel was right on the footpath of a narrow one way street. No where to put the motorbike on the road or the footpath. And no way to get the attention of anyone in reception. I gave up and decided to go around the block. It didn’t work that way and by the time I’d navigated the Town Square and come around again the sky had opened. This time I parked right up in the gutter and left just enough room. The hotel garage entry was the next block over. If only someone had told me…..
My hotel was a beautiful old colonial place and the town is amazing. So much character in the buildings and the people. I had already booked my next few nights in Sucre which was a shame. I am not sure what happened to the other two motorcyclists. I was about an hour late, although they had no accommodation booked so I don’t know how they would have got on.
Oh and it was about two full days since I had eaten and I was starving.
I found a very nice restaurant – Beef with Roquefort sauce.
Tupiza to Uyini, Bolivia
Update 21 (February 2023)
Sucre to Trinidad and back, Bolivia
Update 23 (February 2023)