Off Road Adventure Motorcycle Riding in Kyrgyzstan
Update 62 (June 2024)
Bishkek to Osh, Kyrgyzstan
I found an apartment in the centre of Bishkek and started planning my next route. The Iran embassy was about 1km walk away. It was supposed to be open on Monday but no joy. The next day there was a helpful lady that spoke a little English.
To enter Iran I need a Letter of Invite from a registered entity in Iran. Then I can apply online for an eVisa. I also needed a Carnet De Passage for the motorcycle, which I do not have. My Australian travel insurance will not cover me in Iran. The lady did have an option available but we didn’t get into any detail.
To get to Iran I need to travel through Turkmenistan. The next day I rode about 5km to the Turkmenistan Embassy. The government is not currently issuing Transit Visas, so my only option is a Tourist Visa. Unfortunately this means joining a tour and being accompanied by a Guide. More to come….
While in Bishkek I also started organising my more immediate route. I would ride through the centre of Kyrgyzstan back to Osh.
From Osh I would ride to the border and enter Tajikistan and the Pamir Mountains along the Pamir Highway and Wakhan Valley.
The border there is actually closed to Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan residents. Only foreign tourists are being allowed through. The Pamir Highway is a popular route for foreign overlanders including, many cyclists.
So more paperwork to organise. I needed a permit from the Kyrgyzstan Tourism Authority to be able to exit at the border. That was 20 USD from a tour company called Destination Pamir. I then ordered an eVisa and GBAO permit online with the Tajikistan Government. More detail next Update.
After five days in Bishkek I started back to Osh, via a different route.
Bishkek public building. The weather was warm.
I was now riding in a clockwise route back to Osh.
The sticks on this flower were actually moving. I assume it was an insect that is camouflaging itself.
Towards the end of my first day the road began to deteriorate as I rode into more remote countryside. On the way through one small town, some locals waved me down. I could not get through the way I was going. I was uncertain about why, but I realised later that Google Maps was taking me down a non existent road. I should have been using my Locus Maps 4 app. The locals gave me some directions and got me back on track. Google Maps is not very good in this region so far. Locus Maps is more reliable.
My correct road heading towards Kara Koo Ashuu Pass and Jalal-Abad. It was getting late now. There had been one small town but nowhere that looked like they offered accommodation. Oh well, keep riding.
The road started to climb higher.
Kyrgyzstan serves up another amazing view.
Just before the Kara Koo Ashuu Pass, I came across this happy family, including the baby riding the donkey. I stopped and checked whether I was on the road to Osh, which they confirmed. It was getting dark and there was a noisy thunderstorm in the background.
I went over the Kara Koo Ashuu Pass at about 2,700m. Dropping down a little now. The dirt road was in good condition and quiet. I passed a couple of farmhouses but no other cars.
At about 7:30pm I found a nice spot to camp about 100m from the road. I always carry camping gear for such occasions. I had enough water, just. And it was dry muesli and chocolate for dinner. That thunderstorm in the background did come through but wasn’t too bad.
The next morning.
During the night I thought I was hearing horses moving around on the nearby dry riverbed. As it turned out there were regularly rocks coming loose from those cliffs and falling to the creek bed below.
The next morning I rode to the small town of Kazarman. I picked up some fuel and made some enquiries about my route. I had heard from friends on the China tour that the road over Kaldama Pass was closed by a landslide. I gleaned from a local that it was now open. At least I think that is what he meant. There is very little English around and my Kyrgyz or Russian is non existant. So I was a little nervous until I actually saw the landslide and confirmed I could get past. Having to turn around and back track is not good.
Starting to make my way up to Kaldama Pass.
Kaldama Pass is a 4WD track that is closed over winter. It apparently only opens in June which was about a week ago.
It was slow going in first and second gear with a lot of snow melt across the road still. It made me realise how much lazy riding I have been doing. My legs were a little sore the next day from having to stand often and weight the bike over the uneven ground. It was probably a good warm up for the upcoming Pamir Mountains.
Almost at the Pass.
Kaldama Pass, almost 3,000 metres.
Heading down now. It was still quite a ride to town of Jalal Abad, where I stayed for the night and then rode to Osh the next day.
Leaving China to Kyrgyzstan
Update 61 (May 2024)
Kyrgyzstan to Murghob, Tajikistan
Update 63 (June 2024)