Motorcycling the Tibet Autonomous Region
Update 58 (May 2024)
Deqin to Lhasa, Tibet
After initially pushing out the miles on highways, the ride was starting to get more interesting.
This is my first group tour of anything, so I have no benchmark, but I think this one was working out well. As it turned out we had a good mix, with quite a few setting out for long term motorcycle travel. There was a variety of adventure bikes, the smallest around 300cc through to a couple of Africa Twins. Three Tenere 700’s including me, and no BMWs.
We were now entering the Tibet Autonomous Region. As well as the cultural changes, the terrain was changing. High elevations were the norm. We were all noticing mild symptoms but no one on the trip had any severe reactions. The highest we went on the trip was around 5,460 metres and highest sleeping 4,700m, which is more of a challenge than short term stints.
The Tibet entry monument. The major police checkpoint to enter Tibet was a little further down the road.
Our tour guide was from Lhasa and gave us a traditional Tibetan welcome kahta.
Maybe looking down on the Jinsha River still?
A little greenery amongst the clear mountains.
The style of housing had changed to this more typical appearance. Although this one was larger compared to many.
We were now travelling on the G318 Highway, the longest highway in China. I see it is listed on the Dangerous Roads website, although I think the reason should be more about the idiotic driving rather than the conditions. There is obviously some perceived achievement of driving the 318. Many cars carry a large 318 sticker on their windows and seem to be taking some reward from driving it as dangerously as they can. I think in general Chinese drivers are probably the most rude and obnoxious drivers I have come across so far.
I am not sure of the name for this pass. The tour itinerary calls it Dong Ta La but I cannot find any information for that name. It was 5,130 metres and very cold. A snow storm hit as we rode to the top and the temperature was 0°C. Luckily I was wearing my new Kemimoto heated jacket, that I plug into the bike’s 12v system. It gets very toasty.
There were about eight of these vultures on a hill near the road. Maybe they are the Himalayan Griffon Vulture which are listed as Near Threatened.
A welcome change from Chinese food. We were now around day ten and often it is pretty much the same food for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Parking in the Wallace Burger town.
A temple along the way.
Unknown town.
Still no dirt roads. The whole tour was on bitumen in the end. We covered something like 8,000kms in 25 days so I guess there was no time for dirt.
A mountain near the town of Rawu.
Our dinner spot for the night.
Chinese beer is not really doing it for me. It is served at room temperature, although that is getting cooler. Plus it is all a mid strength of around 3.5% alcohol. So it ends up quite gassy.
But that didn’t stop me still trying a few.
Rawu town
We hit a roadworks closure where a crane was blocking the road, but some of our group realised a motorcycle could squeeze past. Other riders soon followed. The construction workers just seemed to go along with it.
Our first rest day, in Lhasa. Lhasa is the spiritual centre of Tibetan Buddhism. In the morning we visited Jokhang Temple.
Jokhang Temple, originally built circa 640. Some of these people would have been on a lengthy pilgrimage to reach Lhasa. They are prostrating themselves. Some pilgrims will walk hundreds of kilometres completing this prostration process every three steps. It is remarkable. Read more about it here.
We paid a fee and were allowed to visit inside the temple. In some ways it felt crass being a tourist in such a sacred place, but then I’m sure my money would be valuable to the temple. The temple has had a hard time since 1950 and has really only regained some respect in the last 20 years.
Entering China from Boten, Laos
Update 57 (May 2024)
Lhasa to Gyangzê Town, Tibet
Update 59 (May 2024)