Riding My Adventure Motorcycle Across Laos

Update 56 (April 2024)

Entering Laos from Cambodia

After my visit to the elephants in Mondulkiri I had planned to ride north towards the Laos border.  Unfortunately my laptop charger died and my only hope for a replacement was back at Kratie.  I bought a used charger in Kratie and left for the border after two nights.

The road to the border started well but finished poorly with a lot of potholed dirt.

The  Cambodian and Laos offices are separated by about 250 metres.  The Cambodia immigration exit started well.  The only delay was that the Cambodian Customs officer did not want to complete my exit until I had confirmation that Laos would let my motorcycle in.  I was fine with this and rode my bike the 250 metres to talk with Laos Customs.

There had been some talk on the internet of issues around Laos and “big” bikes.  Some saying the country was not letting big bikes in, others saying the policy was under review.  The Laos Customs office was fine with my bike for a 20 USD fee.  So I rode back to Cambodia and finished the formalities there.  Many countries would not be so relaxed about me going across a border like that but it didn’t seem to matter here.

While crossing into Laos I met Maddi and Oli from Queensland.  They have just started their motorcycle ride around the world.  Here is their YouTube channel – tilly2wheels.  They also had a “big” bike and got that in fine.

I arranged a Temporary Vehicle Import and Visa for 30 days.  The bike cost 20 USD and my visa cost 40 USD.  At the border, I also bought a 30 day 50Gb Unitel SIM for 10 USD and 30 days third party insurance for another 10 USD.

I spent a couple of nights in Prakse and then rode 30 minutes down the road to Champasak by the Mekong River.  I had a peaceful view of the river watching the locals fish.

This is the entrance to the Khmer Hindu temple, Vat Phou, a UNESCO World Heritage site.  Building on the site began as early as the 5th century.  The buildings that remain are from the 11-13th centuries.

One of the sets of stairs to the upper level that contains the Sanctuary.

The Sanctuary. 

Elephant Rock.

Looking down on the site.

The Laos New Year celebrations had also started at this time.  The holiday lasts for three days.  Water plays a a large role.  On the first day there is lots of cleaning and washing.  Part of the tradition is to wet other people.  I believe the tradition is to use a small branch to spray some fragrant water on people passing by.  After a while it just became a three day water party where every time I rode through a village I would get doused by a bucket load of water, or a good attempt. People gather along the roads and do this to anyone that comes near.  There is also a tradition to smear a white paste on your face, but I managed to avoid that pretty much.

Water parties in Savannakhet.

I spent a couple of days in Vientiane.  There wasn’t much appeal.  I picked up a spare oil filter for when I get an oil change in China.

A roadside photo on the way to Vang Vieng.  It is burning season for the region.  Every day since arriving in South East Asia the air has been thick with smoke.

Looking out to the mountains surrounding Vang Vieng.  It would be a spectacular area when there is no smoke.  There are a lot of tourists, mainly young backpackers from Europe.

On the way to Luang Prabang.

Getting near Luang Prabang there is a reasonable climb up to about 1,800 metres.  It even got into the twenties celsius for a short while.

The country is becoming a little more lush at times.

Luang Prabang.

Luang Prabang.

Looking over Luang Pabang from Phousi Hill.

Another view from Phousi Hill.

I found a comfortable hotel in Luang Prabang and stayed put for 10 days, waiting for my China tour to start.  After that I just made my way to the border town of Boten in time to cross into China.  I did go via Nong Khiaw which was a nice area.

Kratie to Mondulkiri, Cambodia
Update 55 (April 2024)

Crossing into China from Laos
Update 57 (May 2024)