Riding from Iran to Türkiye
Update 70 (August 2024)
Crossing from Iran into Türkiye
After a short 30 metre ride from Iran I was at the Türkiye border offices. I was instructed to go inside to get processed through immigration. As you would expect it was fairly quiet, certainly no other obvious tourists. The mood was a little tense. I was peppered with questions from some type of police or intelligence officer who was also making strange comments about the padding in my motorcycle jacket and asking what was in there. He never asked to inspect it though. After about twenty minutes they completed my immigration process.
I went back outside to the motorbike and started with Customs. One officer took my passport, vehicle registration and third party insurance papers, and went off to do my Temporary Import Permit for the motorbike. That part all went fine. You will definitely be asked for proof of vehicle insurance. Mine was from Quick Sigorta, organised through Overland to Iran.
Another officer, maybe police or intelligence wanted to inspect my luggage. It was the most invasive inspection I have ever had in almost two years of travel. He pulled everything out onto the ground, clothes, spare parts, toiletries and questioned me on everything. He pissed me off and made for a bad start to my Türkiye experience. Of course he found nothing of interest. I got my motorcycle import approved and was free to leave.
The scrutiny continued after leaving the border. I was stopped five times at checkpoints in the next 1.5 hours ride to Van. Every vehicle was stopped. The first checkpoint after the border was even checking underneath each vehicle. At each stop I would show my passport, then get a few questions, sometimes from the soldiers, sometimes from plain clothes officers. It seems I was caught up in their efforts centred around stopping illegal migration and smuggling from Iran (Afghanistan) to Türkiye. Eventually I made it to the city of Van.
It was pretty dry, just rolling hills as I entered Türkiye.
I did ride past Hoşap Kalesi, a fortress from the 17th century, although use of the site goes back to the 13th century at least.
Hoşap Kalesi fortress.
I arrived in the city of Van in mid afternoon. With no SIM card yet I just knocked on the door of a few hotels and found a suitable one with secure parking. Finding a SIM card took a while. Prices were very high. There is a set up fee charged up front by the phone companies that inflates it a lot. Lunch the next day.
My hotel room was overlooking one of the main streets. Just outside was a wedding venue. Each day I would hear singing and music as the guests farewelled the newly weds.
A “Big Breakfast” Turkish style.
Van Gölü or Lake Van, the largest lake in Türkiye.
I think this was Keban Dam.
Further on I came across the Keban Dam wall.
One night I stayed in the city of Sivas. I was just in time to catch the afternoon sun on Sifaiye Madrasah, an educational building from 1217. It was interesting but there was a lot of rubbish around.
Sifaiye Madrasah in Sivas.
I decided Türkiye wasn’t for me and pushed through. My time in the country had not started well and never really improved. For me it seemed to be one of those in between countries, a bit like Mexico. It didn’t have the unique culture and welcoming appeal like it’s Central Asia neighbours.
I decided to visit ANZAC Cove before leaving. I stayed in Çanakkale and then caught a ferry the next morning across the Dardanelles Strait. Obviously a lot of people do find the country attractive, there were tourist everywhere.
ANZAC Cove. I met a friendly Australian couple from the Sydney area. It was very quiet otherwise. There was a good display that helped put the area in perspective. Especially when you could see the surrounding landmarks in the old photos in the display.
Yadz to Shiraz to Urmia, Iran
Update 69 (August 2024)
Türkiye to Nordkapp, Norway
Update 71 (September 2024)