Parking the Motorcycle to Walk with Elephants, Cambodia

Update 55 (April 2024)

Kratie to Mondulkiri, Cambodia

After a few days in Kratie I decided to have a quick detour to visit an elephant sanctuary and then continue north to Laos.

Every day is still reaching 40°C.  A few weeks ago I was in Japan, riding in 1°C while it was snowing.  Here, I still wear my outer riding jacket, pants and boots.  I am sure some locals look at me and think I am mad.  What they wouldn’t understand is that in another 6 weeks I will be back riding above 5,000 metres and will need that warmth and more.  I have no where to put all the gear, so I might as well wear it and be safer.  Fortunately my Komine gear has some good ventilation features so as long as I keep moving it is not too hot.

Mondulkiri Province is a little higher up in the hills and becomes a more scenic ride after a while.  It was a little cooler also, still up in the high 30’s but down to around 20°C at night. 

Saen Monourom, Cambodia
The tour van for Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant Project
Walking down t the valley at Saen Monourom, Elephant Community Project
The hut by river at Saen Monourom, Elephant Community Project
An Asian elephant at Saen Monourom, Community Elephants
An Asian elephant at Saen Monourom, Community Elephants
Lunch during Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant tour
Preparing a piece of bamboo as a cooking vessel, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Community Elephants have a swim in the river
Saen Monourom, Community Elephants have a swim in the river
An Asian elephant walks out of the river, Saen Monourom, Elephant Community, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephants after a swim
A pair of Asian elephants having a scratch after a swim in the river
Traditional hut in a Bunong village, Cambodia

The Krong Saen Monourom park at the top of town.

From what I can understand there are three different elephant projects in town.  I went with a smaller project that my accommodation host organised.

This is the website, although the person running it now is called Toan(?) – Elephant Community Project.  He did say the website needs updating but they don’t have the resources.  I gather the pandemic was pretty damaging and they are still recovering.

There were just two of us taking the all day tour.  We were collected by Toan and taken about 15km out of town.  The concept is that you spend the day with a few elephants as they wander through the forest and go about their day.  The elephants are owned by a local Bunong village who rent them and some land to the Project.  One elephant can be worth around $50,000 to buy outright.  Many elephants are still used for working around the villages.  The Project instead provides a more enjoyable life for the elephants and still provides an income for the village.

The elephants are supervised by handlers known as mahouts.  They look out for the elephant and make sure they do not wander off into neighbouring farms.  The Project has to pay compensation if the elephants do get into the farmers crops e.g. bananas.  It can become a pretty significant amount if the elephant gets enough time.

The tour van for Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant Project
Walking down t the valley at Saen Monourom, Elephant Community Project
The hut by river at Saen Monourom, Elephant Community Project
An Asian elephant at Saen Monourom, Community Elephants
An Asian elephant at Saen Monourom, Community Elephants
Lunch during Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant tour
Preparing a piece of bamboo as a cooking vessel, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Community Elephants have a swim in the river
Saen Monourom, Community Elephants have a swim in the river
An Asian elephant walks out of the river, Saen Monourom, Elephant Community, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephants after a swim
A pair of Asian elephants having a scratch after a swim in the river
Traditional hut in a Bunong village, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Cambodia

We parked at the top of the hill and walked down into their forest area.

Walking down t the valley at Saen Monourom, Elephant Community Project
The hut by river at Saen Monourom, Elephant Community Project
An Asian elephant at Saen Monourom, Community Elephants
An Asian elephant at Saen Monourom, Community Elephants
Lunch during Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant tour
Preparing a piece of bamboo as a cooking vessel, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Community Elephants have a swim in the river
Saen Monourom, Community Elephants have a swim in the river
An Asian elephant walks out of the river, Saen Monourom, Elephant Community, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephants after a swim
A pair of Asian elephants having a scratch after a swim in the river
Traditional hut in a Bunong village, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Cambodia
The tour van for Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant Project

The Project has the land to the right of the photo.

The hut by river at Saen Monourom, Elephant Community Project
An Asian elephant at Saen Monourom, Community Elephants
An Asian elephant at Saen Monourom, Community Elephants
Lunch during Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant tour
Preparing a piece of bamboo as a cooking vessel, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Community Elephants have a swim in the river
Saen Monourom, Community Elephants have a swim in the river
An Asian elephant walks out of the river, Saen Monourom, Elephant Community, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephants after a swim
A pair of Asian elephants having a scratch after a swim in the river
Traditional hut in a Bunong village, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Cambodia
The tour van for Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant Project
Walking down t the valley at Saen Monourom, Elephant Community Project

There is a small hut by the river that is their base.

An Asian elephant at Saen Monourom, Community Elephants
An Asian elephant at Saen Monourom, Community Elephants
Lunch during Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant tour
Preparing a piece of bamboo as a cooking vessel, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Community Elephants have a swim in the river
Saen Monourom, Community Elephants have a swim in the river
An Asian elephant walks out of the river, Saen Monourom, Elephant Community, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephants after a swim
A pair of Asian elephants having a scratch after a swim in the river
Traditional hut in a Bunong village, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Cambodia
The tour van for Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant Project
Walking down t the valley at Saen Monourom, Elephant Community Project
The hut by river at Saen Monourom, Elephant Community Project

There were two female elephants to visit at the time. 

An Asian elephant at Saen Monourom, Community Elephants
Lunch during Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant tour
Preparing a piece of bamboo as a cooking vessel, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Community Elephants have a swim in the river
Saen Monourom, Community Elephants have a swim in the river
An Asian elephant walks out of the river, Saen Monourom, Elephant Community, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephants after a swim
A pair of Asian elephants having a scratch after a swim in the river
Traditional hut in a Bunong village, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Cambodia
The tour van for Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant Project
Walking down t the valley at Saen Monourom, Elephant Community Project
The hut by river at Saen Monourom, Elephant Community Project
An Asian elephant at Saen Monourom, Community Elephants

The Project does have hand feeding but no rides.  We were given a hand of green bananas and instructions on the feeding process.  The elephants obviously enjoy it and the bananas were soon gone. 

Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant
Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant
Flower in Cambodia valley
Saen Monourom Elephants
Saen Monourom elephant has as scratch
A cashew nut grows on the tree in Cambodia
Flower in Cambodia valley

Once the bananas were gone they just went back to their feeding on the native vegetation, bamboo being the most popular.

Saen Monourom Elephants
Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant
Flower in Cambodia valley
Saen Monourom elephant has as scratch
A cashew nut grows on the tree in Cambodia
Flower in Cambodia valley
Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant
Flower in Cambodia valley
Saen Monourom Elephants
Saen Monourom elephant has as scratch
A cashew nut grows on the tree in Cambodia
Flower in Cambodia valley
Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant
Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant

The forest was still quite dry but there was still some interesting flora.

Flower in Cambodia valley
Saen Monourom Elephants
Saen Monourom elephant has as scratch
A cashew nut grows on the tree in Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant
Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant
Flower in Cambodia valley
Lunch during Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant tour
Preparing a piece of bamboo as a cooking vessel, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Community Elephants have a swim in the river
Saen Monourom, Community Elephants have a swim in the river
An Asian elephant walks out of the river, Saen Monourom, Elephant Community, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephants after a swim
A pair of Asian elephants having a scratch after a swim in the river
Traditional hut in a Bunong village, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Cambodia
The tour van for Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant Project
Walking down t the valley at Saen Monourom, Elephant Community Project
The hut by river at Saen Monourom, Elephant Community Project
An Asian elephant at Saen Monourom, Community Elephants
An Asian elephant at Saen Monourom, Community Elephants

Lunch was pretty good, considering where we were.

After lunch we were to have a rest and then the handlers would collect the elephants from the forest and give them a bath in the river.

The other tourist decided to go back to town with Toan but I stayed on with the three staff.  Like everyone else I found a hammock and some shade to have a break from the heat.

At about 1:30pm the handlers went off to the forest to get the elephants.

Preparing a piece of bamboo as a cooking vessel, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Community Elephants have a swim in the river
Saen Monourom, Community Elephants have a swim in the river
An Asian elephant walks out of the river, Saen Monourom, Elephant Community, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephants after a swim
A pair of Asian elephants having a scratch after a swim in the river
Traditional hut in a Bunong village, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Cambodia
The tour van for Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant Project
Walking down t the valley at Saen Monourom, Elephant Community Project
The hut by river at Saen Monourom, Elephant Community Project
An Asian elephant at Saen Monourom, Community Elephants
An Asian elephant at Saen Monourom, Community Elephants
Lunch during Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant tour

One of the elephant handlers preparing some bamboo for Toan to cook with.  I think he said he would fill the bamboo with a rice and soup and then cook it over the open fire.  It is also a process used to cook a local sticky rice.

Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephants, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Community Elephants have a swim in the river
Saen Monourom, Community Elephants have a swim in the river
An Asian elephant walks out of the river, Saen Monourom, Elephant Community, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephants after a swim
A pair of Asian elephants having a scratch after a swim in the river
Traditional hut in a Bunong village, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Cambodia
The tour van for Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant Project
Walking down t the valley at Saen Monourom, Elephant Community Project
The hut by river at Saen Monourom, Elephant Community Project
An Asian elephant at Saen Monourom, Community Elephants
An Asian elephant at Saen Monourom, Community Elephants
Lunch during Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant tour
Preparing a piece of bamboo as a cooking vessel, Cambodia

The elephant out front seemingly recognised me as the one with the bananas and made a beeline towards me.  It was a little like a young puppy getting excited when it sees you have food, although the scale of an elephant is a little different.  It was all okay and she wandered off after a while.

Saen Monourom, Community Elephants have a swim in the river
Saen Monourom, Community Elephants have a swim in the river
An Asian elephant walks out of the river, Saen Monourom, Elephant Community, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephants after a swim
A pair of Asian elephants having a scratch after a swim in the river
Traditional hut in a Bunong village, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Cambodia
The tour van for Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant Project
Walking down t the valley at Saen Monourom, Elephant Community Project
The hut by river at Saen Monourom, Elephant Community Project
An Asian elephant at Saen Monourom, Community Elephants
An Asian elephant at Saen Monourom, Community Elephants
Lunch during Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant tour
Preparing a piece of bamboo as a cooking vessel, Cambodia

Bath time.  I could have joined in but decided watching was fine.

Saen Monourom, Community Elephants have a swim in the river
An Asian elephant walks out of the river, Saen Monourom, Elephant Community, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephants after a swim
A pair of Asian elephants having a scratch after a swim in the river
Traditional hut in a Bunong village, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Cambodia
The tour van for Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant Project
Walking down t the valley at Saen Monourom, Elephant Community Project
The hut by river at Saen Monourom, Elephant Community Project
An Asian elephant at Saen Monourom, Community Elephants
An Asian elephant at Saen Monourom, Community Elephants
Lunch during Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant tour
Preparing a piece of bamboo as a cooking vessel, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Community Elephants have a swim in the river
An Asian elephant walks out of the river, Saen Monourom, Elephant Community, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephants after a swim
A pair of Asian elephants having a scratch after a swim in the river
Traditional hut in a Bunong village, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Cambodia
The tour van for Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant Project
Walking down t the valley at Saen Monourom, Elephant Community Project
The hut by river at Saen Monourom, Elephant Community Project
An Asian elephant at Saen Monourom, Community Elephants
An Asian elephant at Saen Monourom, Community Elephants
Lunch during Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant tour
Preparing a piece of bamboo as a cooking vessel, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Community Elephants have a swim in the river
Saen Monourom, Community Elephants have a swim in the river

The bath is over. 

Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephants after a swim
A pair of Asian elephants having a scratch after a swim in the river
Traditional hut in a Bunong village, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Cambodia
The tour van for Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant Project
Walking down t the valley at Saen Monourom, Elephant Community Project
The hut by river at Saen Monourom, Elephant Community Project
An Asian elephant at Saen Monourom, Community Elephants
An Asian elephant at Saen Monourom, Community Elephants
Lunch during Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant tour
Preparing a piece of bamboo as a cooking vessel, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Community Elephants have a swim in the river
Saen Monourom, Community Elephants have a swim in the river
An Asian elephant walks out of the river, Saen Monourom, Elephant Community, Cambodia

Judging by the trees, having a scratch afterward is part of the routine.

A pair of Asian elephants having a scratch after a swim in the river
Traditional hut in a Bunong village, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Cambodia
The tour van for Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant Project
Walking down t the valley at Saen Monourom, Elephant Community Project
The hut by river at Saen Monourom, Elephant Community Project
An Asian elephant at Saen Monourom, Community Elephants
An Asian elephant at Saen Monourom, Community Elephants
Lunch during Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant tour
Preparing a piece of bamboo as a cooking vessel, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Community Elephants have a swim in the river
Saen Monourom, Community Elephants have a swim in the river
An Asian elephant walks out of the river, Saen Monourom, Elephant Community, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephants after a swim
Saen Monourom elephant has as scratch
A cashew nut grows on the tree in Cambodia
Flower in Cambodia valley
Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant
Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant
Saen Monourom Elephants
Flower in Cambodia valley

That’s the spot.

A cashew nut grows on the tree in Cambodia
Flower in Cambodia valley
Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant
Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant
Saen Monourom Elephants
Flower in Cambodia valley
Saen Monourom elephant has as scratch

The locals were growing cashew nuts.  Once the rain comes they will plant rice and other crops.  I must admit that I did not know how cashews grow – one nut per fruit.  They are hand picked.  Next time you buy a bag of cashews, maybe give the farmer a thought and try to find some Fair Trade cashews.

Traditional hut in a Bunong village, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Cambodia
The tour van for Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant Project
Walking down t the valley at Saen Monourom, Elephant Community Project
The hut by river at Saen Monourom, Elephant Community Project
An Asian elephant at Saen Monourom, Community Elephants
An Asian elephant at Saen Monourom, Community Elephants
Lunch during Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephant tour
Preparing a piece of bamboo as a cooking vessel, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Community Elephants have a swim in the river
Saen Monourom, Community Elephants have a swim in the river
An Asian elephant walks out of the river, Saen Monourom, Elephant Community, Cambodia
Saen Monourom, Cambodia Community Elephants after a swim
A pair of Asian elephants having a scratch after a swim in the river

On the way back to my accomodation we called into the local Bunong village.  They had built this traditional hut, although most people were now living in simple wooden houses.

Tokyo to Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Update 54 (March 2024)

Entering Laos from Cambodia
Update 56 (April 2024)