Entering Tajikistan's Pamir Mountains by Motorcycle
Update 63 (June 2024)
Kyrgyzstan to Murghob, Tajikistan
My next route was to follow the Pamir Highway into Tajikistan. But unlike some countries, it wasn’t a case of rolling up to the border and asking nicely to be let in. I needed to organise four things:
1. A permit to exit (or enter) the Kyrgyzstan border at Kyzylart. This border is currently only open to foreign tourists. You will need to pay around 20 USD to an agent of the Kyrgyzstan Tourism Office. I used Destination Pamir. The border officals will have a list of who has paid the fee. If you are not on “the list” you will have trouble passing.
2. Meet the immigration requirements to enter Tajikistan. As an Australian I did not need a visa, but I decided to apply for an eVisa anyway. It removes the requirement to register at an Immigration Office upon arrival, and also makes 3 below easier.
3. The Tajikistan crossing at Bor-Döbö is in the Badakhshan Mountainous Autonomous Region. There has been some serious civil unrest in the region in recent years. A GBAO Permit is required to enter and move about the region. You can apply online for an eVisa and GBAO permit at the same time with the Tajikistan Government. Take a few copies of the document, including your passport. Sometimes the soldiers at checkpoints want to keep copies.
4. Arrange a Temporary Import Permit for my motorcycle into Tajikistan. This was easy and organised at the Tajikistan border with a fee of 15 USD.
The eVisa took longer than expected. I thought I had read the Tajikistan eVisa process should take one or two days but it was more like nine days. So I ended up hanging around Osh for quite a while, but it is a nice town so it was fine.
Once I was organised I rode a few hours to Sary-Tash and then crossed the border the next day. Make sure you get fuel and water in Sary-Tash. The next chance is Murghob.
The exit out of Kyrgyzstan went fine. It is a little eery. I was the only one I saw on the road. And when I arrived, the gate was locked. A soldier arrived, checked my credentials and let me in, locking the gate behind. After five minutes another official arrived. He processed me out of Kyrgyzstan. I was on “the list” for the exit fee. He did query my informal looking Australian Motorcycle Registration certificate, like many other countries. My Kyrgyzstan SIM and translator was still working so I was able to explain that in Australia the government just emails a PDF of the certificate and it was “genuine” printout.
They unlocked the gate at the other end of the compound and waved me on my way.
It was a glorious day which I was thankful for.
The road between the borders started well but gets pretty rough just before the pass.
These little furry animals were fun. I saw many of them along the road to Murghob. They were quick as they’d run across the road into their burrows. I haven’t found their name yet.
There is one last Kyrgyzstan military check before the pass. This is looking back at the checkpoint, from the pass.
Kyzyl-Art Pass.
The Tajikistan Bor-Döbö crossing was also quiet of course, although one 4WD with a few tourists did come through.
Getting through the immigration check was quick. The eVisa seemed to hold a bit of sway and I was all done in about five minutes.
I then rode 100 metres to Tajikistan Customs in another building. The officer spoke some English and he processed my motorcycle Temporary Import document in about 15 minutes. I paid a 15 USD fee.
I was then on my way into Tajikistan.
The fence for the Tajikistan China border. The actual border was further back in the mountains but I guess this was the only practical place to build a fence if you really wanted one.
Generally the road was a good gravel road, with just the occasional washout like this.
After a while I came across Karakul Lake. While I was taking this photo another travelling motorcyclist on a 1200 BMW stopped. He was from Russia and the biggest person I have ever seen in my life. He reminded me of those huge brawlers you see in spy movies. He was a nice guy and we tried to chat but the language barrier was too much. It was a classic encounter though.
The town of Karakul.
There were a couple of locals cars. I met one solo cyclist from England and a motorcyclist from Poland. Otherwise that was it.
I did get an icy burst for a while but it did not last. Still around 4,000 metres elevation.
Reaching the town of Murghob at a reasonable time. I had gone back an hour too.
Murghob is a basic town but has all of the essentials. After some riding around I stayed at what I think is the only hotel in town. I could not find a guest house that appealed.
I had not been able to find any Tajik currency while in Kyrgyzstan. So I had no SIM card and no local currency. The hotel did accept USD cash. I also met a nice Polish couple that were going the opposite direction so we swapped my last Kyrgyz cash and they sold me some Tajik Somoni for USD.
In the morning I would need to get better organised.
Bishkek to Osh, Kyrgyzstan
Update 62 (June 2024)
Murghob to Wakhan Valley, Tajikistan
Update 64 (June 2024)