Update 61 (May 2024)
Leaving China to Osh, Kyrgyzstan
Our 25 day motorcycle tour of China was coming to an end. We loaded up for our final day and left Kashgar for Irkeshtam Pass.
The ride was slow and tedious with a number of checkpoints and very slow speed limits as we rode through China’s high security border zone. The Customs office was about 120kms from the actual border. We had to process the exit paperwork in one building and then ride to a nearby building and unload all of our bags to be put through an x-ray.
After that we rode to the actual border and Immigration. Passing through China Immigration was amongst the most tedious I have come across. The group was already over China’s controls and just wanted to leave. They kept us waiting for hours and it was my hardest country to get out of by far.
A China Motorcycle Tour - Should You Go?
I have covered my time in China in the last four Updates, so you might want to have a look and make up your own mind – Link here.
I went through China because I wanted to get to the other side. In every other country I have been to so far, I would have just entered, toured the country on my own and then exited. Unfortunately with China I was forced to join a tour and pay significantly more than I would have otherwise. I had no choice, so I accepted that.
Should you motorcycle through China as a foreign tourist? I think there are many countries that offer an equal or better cultural and scenic experience, without the impositions. It is too much cost and hard work for the experience. Go to Chile, Argentina, Bolivia or Peru, or the “Stans” where I am now. Check out my experiences in the other countries on this website.
If you decide you want to visit China by motorcycle, I have no reservations in recommending the Ride China tour company. The trip was well organised and our Guide did a great job. There were frustrating moments but they were typically beyond the control of Ride China. I think given the conditions they have to operate in, it went very well.
Entering Kyrgyzstan with a Motorcycle
The delays at the Chinese border had put us way behind schedule. Some were going to Sary Tash and some of us including me had made arrangements to stay further on at Osh.
We needed the Kyrgyzstan entry to go smoothly, and it did. It was such a pleasure to deal with “customer friendly” officials. It took about 15 minutes to process my visa free entry.
Customs took a little longer to prepare the Temporary Vehicle Import. I don’t remember paying any money but I had read of a 10 USD administration charge. They had plenty of friendly staff and I think the Customs paperwork took about 20 minutes and then we were on our way.
We still had a four hour ride to Osh and it was 6pm already and dark at 8:30. Everyone split off on their own or smaller existing groups. But we have all kept in touch and tracked our progress towards Europe.
The ride into Kyrgyzstan got off to a spectacular start. It was a perfect late afternoon with the sun lighting the surrounding mountains after recent snow. We were still above 3,700 metres at times.
Unfortunately those dark clouds brought some rain and sleet.
Eventually we made it to Osh around 10pm and headed off to our respective accommodations. I had booked a room at Asman Guest House. I had tried to warn the host I would be late but it was still later than I expected. He gave me a friendly welcome and even made me some dinner.
Visiting the Osh bazaar. I ended up spending quite a lot of time in Osh and really enjoyed the city. I found it so peaceful and at ease compared to China. And I was enjoying the food more.
They love their bread here.
Osh Government offices.
Lenin is getting refurbished.
Another Osh breakfast, with my host this time. He spoke good English luckily and it was good to chat and learn about local life.
It was time to start working out how I was getting to Europe.
There seemed to be four choices:
- Transport the motorbike by truck from Bishkek to Poland with a Polish company. I get a plane.
- Ride through Turkmenistan to Iran and then Turkey.
- Ship the motorbike by ferry across the Caspian Sea. I fly from Kazakhstan to Azerbaijan.
- Ride from Kazakhstan, to Russia, to Georgia.
There are tricky aspects with them all, but I was favouring number 2.
I decided to ride to Bishkek, the Kyrgyzstan capital and visit the Iran and Turkmenistan embassies to get a first hand understanding of the rules.
Lunch in Osh for around 5 AUD. And happy ladies looking after me.
On the way to Bishkek now. Farm animals are on the move, heading for greener pastures. Sometimes sheep, goats, cows or horses.
It’s a case of slowly funneling a gap and carefully moving through the flock. Horses are a little trickier and tend to be a little flighty with the motorcycle noise.
Kyrgyzstan’s famous red poppies covering a hillside.
Riding past Toktogul Lake in the afternoon. I ended up staying in a guest house in Toktogul township.
The next day was a scenic ride through the mountains into Bishkek. Kyrgyzstan is such an amazingly green country. I was quite taken with the country.
There are many nomadic families that come into the mountains during summer. They typically bring a yurt or have simple permanent “caravans”. Normally they are tending to horses.
It was cool, maybe 12°C.
There are still a lot of soviet era symbols around. Kyrgyzstan became independent from the Soviet Union in 1991.
A typical roadside stall that the nomadic families set up. Often they are selling qurut, the small cheese balls and honey.
It was an easy days ride. Sunset from my Bishkek apartment.