Hiking the Heysen Trail, Flinders Ranges
Trip Report Week 2 - October 2020 - Flinders Ranges
Daily Reports - Mayo Hut to Quorn
Day 7 Mayo Hut to Hawker
Click here for my Trip Report Week 1.
I was on the trail by 6am to beat the 32 °C (90 °F) heat. It’s a pretty straightforward walk into the town of Hawker. More creek beds, including some water. The last 6km was a detour away from the trail, by the Outback Highway. A strong northerly at my back helped me along.
I decided to have a rest day in Hawker. It was 34 °C (93 °F), so I’d timed the day off well. Hawker has Flinders Food Co cafe. It’s a rare gem and even better after my hiking food.
Please keep in mind that I am writing this update about three years after the event. Please take it as general information and hopefully entertainment. If you are going to do the trail, research it thoroughly.
The view of my route starting out from Mayo Hut.
Looking across to Wonoka Station.
This was a nice spot, some of the water holes were quite deep.
Flinders Food Co (2020) – Salmon Eggs Benedict with charcoal buns.
Day 9 Hawker to Calabrinda Creek
Day 8 was a rest day in Hawker.
Day 9 was forecast to be a warm day with rain in the afternoon. I had to retrace my route back along the Outback Highway to rejoin the trail. I was hoping to hitch a ride but no chance at 6am on a Sunday.
Today I walked along the ridge of Jarvis Hill. The view was spectacular and it’s a fun and challenging walk. Although the wild wind gusts made it a little hair raising and caused a dust storm that took out much of the view after a while.
I reached one possible camp site by 1pm. No rain yet but the wind and dust was crazy. I decided to push on another 16km to the next site. So I did 34km all up. The rain has come this evening after I set up.
Heading for Jarvis Hill. This would make a great one day adventure. Stay in Hawker a couple of nights and have a driver drop off and collect you at each end.
Up we go. Hard work but I’ve always found it kind of fun scrambling up rocks like this.
The wind was really starting to lift some dirt now.
The dusty conditions at my first potential campsite. The dust had settled by the time I reached Calabrinda Creek campsite.
Day 10 Calabrinda Creek to Buckaringa North
I had a wild adventurous night last night at Calabrinda Creek, with Mother Nature. At 10pm I woke to find the tent roof almost touching my face, as gust after gust came up the dry creek I was camped beside. It’s weird how you can hear the gusts of wind coming a few seconds before it hits. I put up the few extra guy ropes that I had and dozed through a wild and somewhat rainy night.
The rain cleared in the morning but the wind has hung around all day.
Luckily I’m in a sheltered site tonight but I can still hear it crazily whipping around above.
I left about 9am and was either walking along a dirt track or following a fence line through rock strewn paddocks. I’ve still got blister and rubbing problems from my pack that are getting the better of me at the moment. 19km today, arrived about 3pm.
Just finished dinner and I’m in bed, and it’s 6:10pm. There’s no mobile signal that’s usable. Dinner was a one pot mix of dried spaghetti bolognese flavouring, 90 second Jasmine rice and re-hydrated dried peas and mushrooms. Filled me up, although I’m still not that hungry, too weary still I think.
Looking back on my progress. Beautiful view.
Buckaringa North campsite. Still no problem finding good drinking water, fortunately.
I found this rock in a creek bed and thought it looked rather intriguing.
Day 11 Buckaringa North to Mount Arden South
It was a pretty routine start to the day. I ate my muesli and was walking by 8am. The homemade muesli was a mix of dried milk, oats, fruits and nuts. On reflection I should have put more variety into each pack. And I put something healthy in there that I didn’t like much. I can’t remember what it was now but I wish I’d taken the time beforehand to test it out before putting it in every serve.
I spent much of the day on Buckaringa Wildlife Sanctuary. Nice country with quite a few kangaroos and different birds. I was surprised to get swooped by a magpie a couple of times. I would have thought humans would be so rare it wouldn’t worry. Ha, maybe it moved there from the city?
The second part of the day was scaling Mount Arden. The trail followed a 4wd track up and down through private property. Eventually I made it to the top. The weather wasn’t on my side so I didn’t hang around. I’d say it was about 5 degrees with showers and a howling wind.
One good thing about these high altitudes is that there can be some mobile phone reception. I found out tomorrow is forecast to have 8-22mm rain and very cold. So I’ve decided to stay put another night to sit out the weather. No internet, no battery to spare anyway, and the only reading material was my small first aid booklet. It was going to be a very contemplative time, or lots of sleeping, more likely.
Reaching the top of Mount Arden. 844 metres above sea level.
My chill out spot for the day. It was a long day but I was happy with my decision not to walk in the rain. There were some flatter camps down by the creek but I wasn’t sure how much water the creek would get.
Day 13 Mount Arden south to Dutchman’s Hut
Day 12 was my rain day. I’d guess there was about 10-15mm of rain in the end. I brushed up on my first aid. I had previously completed a three day “Remote First Aid” course with St Johns.
It had kept raining all night. I woke at dawn and took a leap of faith that the weather forecast would come true and give me a better day. The start wasn’t promising, still raining and freezing cold. I couldn’t feel my fingers as I packed up the tent. Walking by 7am.
My notes say I ended up doing 22km for the day. Three sections. First down a creek for about 8km, then across paddocks for about 4km and then about 10km up a creek. But I am not sure that this is correct. I passed through the Eyre Depot campsite. I remember the day being more like 30km plus and being pretty shattered as I arrived at Dutchman’s Hut on dusk.
An eerie drizzly start to my day’s walk.
Eyre Depot Campsite.
It was hard work scrambling up this creek.
Dutchman’s Stern (I think).
Looking back on my progress.
Dutchman’s Hut. There was even electricity connected.
Day 14 Dutchman’s Hut to Quorn
I forgot to take a photo inside Dutchman’s Hut. It was a good set up, large table, some cooking facilities if I remember and space to sleep quite a few. And electricity, I was sailing a little close to the wind as far as battery supply was going and was glad to find some power.
I had a bit of a lie in and an easy start to the day. The sun was out and I dried out my gear on the veranda, then lazily wandered off. Only about 14km to get to the town of Quorn.
Daylight savings had started at some point so it was about 1pm by the time I arrived. Good timing to get a yiros from the Quandong Cafe and check in to my accommodation at Elizabeth House.
Melaleuca orophila (Needle Bottlebrush also called Flinders Ranges Bottlebrush).
Walking towards Quorn.
Continued……..
Hiking The Heysen Trail North End to Mayo Hut
Week 1 – October 2020
Hiking The Heysen Trail Quorn to Murray Town
Week 3 – October 2020