Hiking the Heysen Trail, Flinders Ranges

Trip Report Week 3 - October 2020 - Flinders Ranges

Heysen Trail - Quorn to Murray Town

Day 17 Quorn to Catninga Shed

Click here for my Trip Report Week 1.

Day 15 and 16 were rest days in the town of Quorn.  I was in some wonderful accommodation at Elizabeth House (Update – might be closed now).  I had one of the original main bedrooms, complete with fireplace and the lady running it was a wonderful host.  I just took it easy.  Resting, cleaning and restocking, my belly and pack.  I had the one of the best milkshakes ever at Teas on the Terrace.

Day 17 was a pretty routine day of 26km.  I had an early start and made it to camp at a reasonable time.

Please keep in mind that I am writing this update almost three years after the event.  Just take it as general information and hopefully entertainment. 

Elizabeth House accommodation.

Quorn is famous for the Pichi Rich Railway.

The sun coming up over the Quorn railway yards as I leave town..

There are some classic old gates around.

I followed the Pichi Richi railway line for a while.

A chance to top up my water.

Stumpy Tail Lizard.

A species of Wahlenbergia – maybe Wahlenbergia aridicola (Dryland Bluebush)

A species of Casuarina (Sheoak) – probably Casuarina pauper (Black Oak)

Dianella revoluta (Black anther flax-lily), Heysen Trail

Dianella revoluta (Black anther flax-lily)

Catninga Shed campsite, Heysen Trail

Catninga Shed campsite.

Day 18 Catninga Shed to Wilmington

Today was a bit of a frustrating day.  It seemed the trail was taking some pretty big detours to find Heysen Trail friendly property owners.  I didn’t plan to stop in Wilmington but I had just about finished my 4.5 litres of water, and it was closer than the next official campsite.

I did have a nice meal at the pub as I walked through town to the caravan park, on the other side of town.  And there were some ladies that had just finished Australian Rules football practice, having a drink of Canadian Club that was on tap.  It looked refreshing.  It was a little sweet, but sweet can be ideal after a long hot walk.  I floated down the road to the caravan park and got a cabin for the night.

Day 19 Wilmington to Gray’s Hut

7am start for today’s 20km.  After a 6km hike out of town, I reached the campsite I had originally aimed for.  It ended up I was kind of lucky, as there were a dozen year 9 school boys and their teachers there last night.  They went off somewhere else, not on my trail.  I haven’t seen anyone hiking the trail in at least a week.

The first hour after that was good, as I climbed up into the National park.
But then, apart from a nice stretch down a creek, I found myself trudging up and down hills through weed covered paddocks.  The country is changing and I do miss the northern Flinders Ranges beauty and ruggedness.

Gray’s Hut.

Gully near Grays Hut, Heysen Trail

Day 20 Gray’s Hut to Melrose

Soup for breakfast this morning, I am over the my powdered milk muesli I pre-made and had posted to me.  Two minute noodles for dinner last night.  I do need to work out something better for trail food.

Today was a really nice day.  A steep climb up to about 900m and then a pleasant stroll over and around Mount Remarkable.  It was fantastic to be in a pristine national park again.  The flora photos all came from the park.

I was in Melrose by noon and checked into a cabin in the caravan park.  Found a delicious lunch and then did my washing.  It would have been nice to stay another night but it was a Friday and I was too late.  Melrose is a pretty town. 

Walking along Mount Remarkable into the town of Melrose.

Over The Edge Cafe and Bike Shop

Day 21 Melrose to Murray Town

Today’s walk to Murray Town was 16km of easy terrain, so I decided to have a sleep in and make the most of my Melrose cabin.  Plus it was a chance to wait for Over The Edge Cafe and Bike Shop to open.  So I had a yummy breakfast, bought some snacks and then left town about 10am.

I think I’ve got over my northern Flinders Ranges withdrawals. Today I was happy to just accept there will be times when I will just be walking to get somewhere else.  My body felt better today too.  All my ailments are settling.

A photo of someone’s ambitious renovation project.

The first vineyard I have come across.

The Murray Town campground.  It was a good set up with hot showers and a kitchen around the other side of the building.

Day 22 Murray Town to The End (of my walk)

I’m not sure where the time went this morning.  I was up early but it was 8am by the time I was walking out of Murray Town.  The weather wasn’t kind.  It was cold and the hills were covered in a misty drizzle that stayed around all morning.

I had 26km to cover.  Around the 15km I made the decision to stop my walk.  I was now well and truly out of the Flinders Ranges terrain and had seen the section that I set out to cover.  I am curious about the area south of Adelaide to Cape Jervis and maybe will have a crack at that one day.

So after deciding to stop I found the closest town which was Port Germain.  It was a 24km walk, downhill at least.  There wasn’t much open when I arrived but the Bowling Club had a sausage sizzle going, so that was pretty good after a long day.

My brother generously offered to collect me the next day.  I was very much looking forward to a soft bed and enjoying fresh food.  I can’t remember weighing myself but I guess I lost about 5 kilograms which is a fair bit for me.

Thanks for reading about my Heysen Trail adventures, I hope you enjoyed them.

My last photo of the trip below.