Solo Travel through Nicaragua by Motorcycle
Entering Nicaragua - Update 35 (July 2023)
Liberia, Costa Rica into Nicaragua
It was a Sunday when I crossed into Nicaragua. Exiting Costa Rica was just a normal experience. Entering Nicaragua was painfully slow. They didn’t have enough staff, maybe because it was a Sunday. I also felt like I got the run around by the Customs inspection lady. I suspect it may have been because I kept refusing the services of the “fixer” that was hanging around…. In the end it took me about 3.5 hours, when most border entries can be over in about 45 minutes, including the motorcycle.
Completing the actual paperwork part was easy. They just completed a Temporary Import for my motorcycle. I don’t recall paying any money. It was just the waiting to be served that took forever in the heat.
So, by the time I entered Nicaragua I had just about had a melt down of the mind and body. I was ready to give the whole country the finger and ride through as quickly as possible. Luckily, as it turned out I had already committed to some accommodation on Ometepe Island in Lago Cocibolca (Lake Nicaragua).
It was about 2:30pm and time to find some lunch. I took a quick turn off the main road to get my first look at the lake and happened on this bar that was still serving food.
Lunch near La Virgen by Lago Cocibolca.
There were a few families spending the afternoon swimming in Lago Cocibolca. My destination is on the far side of the right hand volcano.
Lunch was pretty good. Chicken underneath, I don’t know what the sauce was but it was spicy and very tasty.
My ferry across to the island. I had to pay a couple of taxes for taking over the motorcycle and maybe being a tourist, but including the ferry ride, all up I think it was about 5 USD for me and the motorcycle.
I found a great spot to sit and enjoy the trip. By the time I reached the island my border crossing frustrations were gone and Nicaragua was back in the good books. The lake is fresh water but actually has Bull Sharks and Swordfish that have come up river from the Caribbean Sea at some point.
The island is quite large and it was dark by the time I reached my accommodation. It was a guest house about 700 metres up this track in the forest. I ended up staying three nights. Most of my meals were at Cafe Campestre below which had an English owner that had done a great job with the place, selling lots of local produce.
The view across to the other volcano from the guest house backyard.
The Howler Monkeys that live in the surrounding jungle were quite vocal but getting a photo was not so easy.
On my second day I paid the local farmacia a visit. My ankles and lower legs were swollen and had lots of red marks. As expected, bed bugs had finally caught up with me, at my last Costa Rica hotel near the border I believe. They sold me some antihistamine tablets and a cream. The swelling has gone but the bite marks are still there even 2-3 weeks later. I think the heat and moisture of my riding boots is not helping. I also gave them a few medicines I had brought from Australia that I was never going to use. They appreciated that, it is a pretty poor area.
I quickly warmed to Nicaragua. It is hard to explain but it was like some of the more appealing countries in South America. It seems to have a simple, unspoilt lifestyle. Everyone lives outside because the weather suits it and their houses are simple and small. And I guess being a small island community where I was, they all know each other and are friends. I’m sure many would prefer not to be as poor as they are. They don’t have basics like reliable electricity, safe drinking water and a sewerage system. But it also seems they are more happy and cheerful than some of the people I have come across in more affluent countries on this trip.
Drying some type of grain by the road.
Leaving the island. This is the second position my bike was secured in. Each time more cars came they would get me to move it. It’s final spot below.
It was a windy day and there was quite a swell up once we cleared the island.
I started heading for the historic town of Granada which was founded in 1524. As often happens in these old towns I had trouble finding suitable accommodation with secure on site parking. So I ended up in another guest house in the hills. This time I was the only guest and no onsite manager. It was a pretty amazing setting at the top of a hill looking across at surrounding jungle with lots of noisy howler monkeys.
Time for today’s afternoon rain.
I rode through Granada to have a look and pick up some breakfast.
It was time to go to the beach. Pacific side this time. As often happens, my accommodation chose my destination – La Puesta del Sol Restaurante y Cabañas. It is a highly rated restaurant owned by some former Italians that had three cabins out the back. I ended up staying three nights. There wasn’t much around but the food and room was good so I just chilled.
It’s a wreck now but what an appealing architectural design for right on the beach.
Best beer I have had for quite a while and served ice cold.
San Vito to Puerto Viejo to Liberia, Costa Rica
Update 34 (June 2023)
Las Peñitas, Nicaragua to Honduras
Update 36 (July 2023)