Crossing into Bolivia with My Motorcycle
Update 19 (February 2023)
Entering Bolivia from Paraguay
I managed to arrive at the Paraguay Bolivia border at lunchtime, again. The Paraguay offices and the Bolivia Migración are in the same building, but Paraguay works through lunch and Bolivia stops. It was just me and a bunch of truck drivers. And they didn’t seem to do any migración, just the Paraguay Customs and then moved on.
So the Paraguay part was over quickly and then I waited out the front in the shade, with the dogs and chickens until the Bolivia office opened. That all went fine and then I rode my bike the 250 metres to the Bolivia Aduanas (Customs).
I don’t think they see many travellers with foreign motorbikes. At first the officer had me filling in a form to register the bike as luggage. Unfortunately I had no phone service, so no translator. I did try to point out a photo of my Spanish Paraguay Temporary Vehicle Import Permit but I think he said something about this is Bolivia now.
He then disappeared for about 30 minutes and then another officer came out with the correct Import paperwork which I signed and then left with my copy. It was fortunate I did get the correct paperwork in the end, as two weeks later I came across an Aduanas Quarantine checkpoint in the middle of Bolivia. She knew her stuff and asked to see my paperwork. I got a smile and a wave and all was well.
I am not sure if I have mentioned the Policia checkpoints. I don’t remember many in Chile but in Argentina, Paraguay and Bolivia there is normally a checkpoint entering and leaving most towns. I always lift my visor so they can see me and normally they just wave me through. I have only had my passport credentials checked in Paraguay and this once upon entering Bolivia, about 10km after the border. A young officer stopped me and wrote down my details and the motorbike’s and that was it. I think it was just a followup check to make sure everything was done correctly at the border. The rest of the time in Bolivia I just get a wave to pass through.
I had already booked some accommodation in the nearby town of Villamontes. It is always wise to have something organised, first day in a new country. I just stayed one night. The next morning I walked into town to get a Bolivian SIM card from Entel.
I did glimpse a Toucan here. In the morning I was sitting around chatting with the hotel owners, when they both yelled “Toucan”. It was too quick for me and all I saw was a bird with a huge beak flying off in the distance. Apparently they come to feed off the fruit trees at the hotel. Unfortunately I have not seen one since.
Villamontes Square getting some work done.
Hotel Ecológico Gota del Chaco, Villamontes.
The hotel bird. He would pop up everywhere, often right by your feet.
Part of the Villamontes market building.
The older readers will know what this is.
It was almost midday by the time I left Villamontes. I only had about 195kms to my next town, so I wasn’t too concerned. This was about to be my first lesson about never assuming distances in Bolivia. And I am still getting caught.
The road started as a nice sealed road but then I had to turn off. There were lots of warning signs and a fellow blocking traffic, with a rope across the road. I pointed forward and he let me through. From what I could gather this is similar to the Yungas Road (Death Road) near La Paz. It is the traditional route that has been replaced and is now only meant for light traffic. Mind you, the better road that my mapping app wanted me to take was 300km longer around.
Ruta 11 from Villamontes to Tarija follows Rio Pilcomayo near the start.
There is a stretch near the start of the road, where it is just one lane. And if you are careless there is a deadly fall to the river below. They have people permanently controlling this part with their flags (red – stop, green – go). Despite what I said, there was an occasional truck still using the road. I was a bit freaked out on my motorbike, so hats off to this truck driver. Around the corner was pretty spooky too but I did not think it right to stop and get some photos.
Goats are popular. They will often be in large groups, feeding along the road. And occasionally protected by a very diligent dog or two. They always try to chase me when they’re on the job like that.
In the mountains people will take advantage of any space to grow a crop, often corn in this area.
The afternoon sun was starting to provide some nice lighting, but my slow start from Villamontes was adding some pressure.
I arrived before nightfall and spent three nights in Tarija, just settling into Bolivia. My local fruit and vegetable lady below.
Best empanadas for a while, with onion, coleslaw and chili sauces. Pollo and Queso still cooking.
Las Cataratas del Iguazú to Paraguay
Update 18 (February 2023)
Tarija to Tupiza, Bolivia
Update 20 (February 2023)