Leaving Chile on my Motorcycle at Paso de San Francisco
Update 13 (January 2023)
Copiapó to La Puntillae, Argentina
Another day, another border crossing, it seemed. This time I wanted to go from Chile to Argentina, via Paso de San Francisco. I left town early Sunday morning and started towards the border. It’s about 470km between fuel stops, so I had bought an 8 litre (two gallon) container. My normal distance is about 350-380km, at best on a tank. With this I would get 550-600km.
So, it was all going fine until I spotted this sign after the turn off to the border. Closed. Is it though, surely not? I kicked myself because I had been slack and just assumed it was open and all was well. Is this just an out of date sign, from the pandemic maybe, that no one has taken down?
I rode back towards town, to get some phone reception. The internet didn’t provide any clarity. I decided not to risk it and go back into town and get confirmation. I called into the last fuel station out of town, they should know. Yes, yes, it’s all open, nodded the attendants and a customer. Off we go…..
Despite appearances, the road was very good. It is not bitumen but a different type of sealing, but generally had the same affect. Although it did deteriorate just before the Chile border control.
At about 3,000 metres.
A relaxing ride. The road was nice and quiet.
At about 4,000 metres. There seemed to be three types of vegetation. There was this stuff with the big “do not eat me” sign.
And this flowering ground cover. And a short tuffty yellow grass.
And an insect. Five minutes later, I saw the small bird that eats the insect. But that was it.
Just before the Chile border control is Salar de Maricunga. There is a short track in and out to visit the salt lake.
Salar de Maricunga.
So, I arrived at the Chile border control. Closed. An old man that must have been the caretaker came over to me. I understood enough to translate, mañana and 8 fingers. Come back in the morning at 8am. The border is open, just not on Sunday’s.
That was that. There is nothing around. I didn’t have enough water or food to camp anywhere (which apart from the low temperature would have been a good adventure).
So I rode back to Copiapó and checked into the same hotel. I only had myself to blame. Although, later on I searched the internet high and low, using all the translators and failed to actually find what days Chile or Argentina opened for that crossing. The learning was obviously there, to be wary of Sundays. It was a nice ride, despite doing 2 x 170km that wasn’t necessary.
Anyway, we will move on, as if nothing happened. I passed through fine the next day.
I was now over the pass (4,726 metres) and on my way down. On my map there was a track off to my right, with some sort of point of interest. It was marked as “termas las grutas”. It was only a few kilometres, so I decided to take a look.
When I arrived, I found this building and could hear people inside. I assumed it was just one of those refuges from the weather that are dotted along the Andes.
Once inside I found this jolly bunch. Luckily the fellow on the left spoke English. It turned out there were two groups of people there. The English speaker was in one hiking group. I am confused now about which volcano it was, but one of the peaks in the photos above, is at 6,500m and they planned to be there in 5 days. This was just some acclimatising time in the lead up.
They were really nice people and I even got a round of applause, seemingly for being an Australian in their country. The water wasn’t very warm apparently but they’d already been hiking for a few days, so thought the warmish water was still a treat.
I’d been keeping pace with this biking couple from Chile, since before the Chile border office. Communication was difficult with no internet translator, but lots of smiles.
I eventually made it to my destination of Fiambala about 8pm. It’s a small country town. Now, where to sleep? There was no phone coverage. I physically rode the town and tried a few places but they were full. I ended up going to the only fuel station and filling up. I met the Chilean biker couple, who were going through the same process. Using the gas station wifi, they told me they were going to check out a cabin just out of town. They were super helpful. I went along with them, on a vague suggestion to them, from the owner there was another one available. There wasn’t, but that’s the way it goes.
I rode back to the wifi and ended up booking a room 50km down the road, at Finca la Sala in La Puntilla. As it turned out I saw the Chilean bikers again, they’d rejected the cabin. I don’t know how they got on after that.
It was almost dark when I arrived at Finca la Sala and it was still a hot balmy night. Their kitchen was still open, talk about landing on your feet.
Uspallata to Paso Agua Negra and Chile
Update 12 (mid January 2023)
La Puntilla to Humahuaca, Argentina
Update 14 (late January 2023)