Riding Argentina's Southern Coastline

Update 8 (January 2023)

Rio Gallegos to Comodoro Rivadavia, Argentina

I was getting too comfy in my little Rio Gallegos apartment and feeling like I better get moving again.

I don’t really make too many plans on where to go. It’s probably detrimental in some ways, as I am sure I just ride right by some nice tourist spots. But planning takes time, extra for me not speaking the local language, and there are so many other things to do, so most of the time I just go with the flow and see what I come across.

So I am just heading north along the Argentine coast. At some point I will head back to the mountains but not for now. I’ll check out their coastline for a while.

The crosswind is still very much with me. I think I have had stronger wind in South Australia near Ceduna (straight up from the Antarctic) but this is just relentless. But every now and then you’ll be battling the wind and then suddenly realise, everything has gone quiet, you can hear the engine and the whir of the knobby tyres on the highway, and then you realise you are rapidly building up speed – we’ve picked up a tail wind!

Back on the open road, from Rio Gallegos to Puerto San Julian.

More flamingos, this time I could get a little closer.

I can’t imagine the baby getting a ride has good prospects.

The inlet of Puerto San Julian. I arrived on New Years day and stayed one night. Luckily I found a good mini mercardo and picked up some dry biscuits, a tomato and some salami for dinner.

Along the road heading north to Comodoro Rivadavia

I haven’t talked about waving whilst driving. In Australia, I have got used to giving the oncoming driver a casual wave when in remote regions. It was pretty much the same towards the bottom of the Carratera Austral in Chile. And there is definitely a custom in regional areas that long term travellers wave to each other, be it cars, trucks, bicycle or motorcycle.

People in Argentina are super enthusiastic about this. When I first entered Argentina, cars would often madly flash their lights as I approached. In Australia that would normally mean a hazard or police radar up ahead. But here it is also accompanied by enthusiastic waving and a message of support.

These SOS emergency “phones” are quite regular along the Argentina highways. They’d save a few lives over winter I would say.

I came across this old shop in Fitz Roy while looking for some lunch.

After a while I hit the coast again and spotted a track that was only 500 metres to the water. It was obviously a popular spot some time ago but had fallen into ruin now. There were just a few people fishing further up the beach.

It was actually a very peaceful spot with the strong off shore westerly wind being blocked by the cliffs.

I was travelling beside the coast now and could see the water at times and spotted a couple of seals having a swim. They were a bit far away but I pulled over for a photo anyway. I had been on the lookout for some seals and this might be my only chance for a photo. Once I got off my bike and walked to the cliff edge, I saw the whole village was there.

I found a way down to the wrecked road below and took a closer look, without disturbing them of course.

It is a beautiful coastline, a lot of the time with little development. Wind surfing is obviously popular.

There were quite a few oil pumps by the road as I approached the Comodoro Rivadavia area.

My hotel for a couple of nights. So far in South America I just drink the local tap water without any issues. But I was warned off here, due to the local petroleum industry. They provided filtered water.

I had been trying to replace some lost nuts and bolts for a long time. This nut and bolt shop was fantastic and came up with some good solutions for some unusual parts.

Leaving Comodoro Rivadavia, my biggest town since Santiago I’d say.

Ushuaia to Rio Gallegos, Argentina
Update 7 (late December 2022)

Comodoro Rivadavia to Gaiman, Argentina
Update 9 (early January 2023)